June 22, 2019

Day Eight

The alarm goes off at 1:30 and I lay there wondering if I really slept at all. It’s summit day and the suck of the now will all be forgotten if I can just rally and get this shit done. Although it’s the middle of the night, the Alaskan summer provides me with enough light to prep in the tent without a headlamp.

Our goal is to be moving by 2am and our team spent a go...

June 20, 2019

Day 5 (con't.)

We rope up and head out to tackle the icefall proper.

I take the lead, snowplowing back down icefall camp’s entry spine before taking a sharp left turn out to the ramp. Leaving the spine, I immediately have to navigate across three monster troughs that sport slumping snow bridges to gain the center of the low angled slope leading upwards. The moves are heady. I...

June 19, 2019

Sometimes a mission takes longer to pull off than you originally think. Such was the case with Mt. Sanford, a 16k+ peak in Alaska’s Wrangell St Elias National Park.

I had first learned about this mountain, while running backcountry snowboarding trips for Outward Bound in the late 2000s. A colleague of mine who calls AK home regaled me with visions of splitboarding off this m...

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